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#61
Ivan

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a ona mi kaže "pa to sam i ja pročitala u Blicu ili B92 gde su pisali o našoj marei" :)

Lamela za Ajkulu! Pa ti si jedina... ;) ("Mi nismo andjeli")

Edited by Ivan, 26 December 2012 - 00:16.


#62
Nemanja87bgd

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To to :unworthy: hehehehe
Ne menjam ja više ni kola ni devojku, izgleda da se lepo slažu :laughing:

Edited by Nemanja87bgd, 26 December 2012 - 10:04.


#63
ivan.ik

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Ford Focus C Max 1.6 TDCI Turbo Problems

The Ford Focus C max tdci is fitted with a 16 HDI engine, this engine suffers badly from turbo problems and has a serious oil gunging problem. When you combine this with poor servicing then you cause an oil circulation problem, this is the main cause of turbo failure on tdci 1.6 hdi engine. The turbo needs a constant oil supply at engine oil pressure to keep the bearings lubricated, the oil must also get through the turbo and circulate back round the engine. If the oil supply to the turbo is interrupted for any time then the bearings in the turbo will fail and the turbo will shack itself to bits.
Replacing the turbo is simply not enough on the Ford Focus 1.6 tdci, the only way out of this problem is by doing the following. Remove oil sump from bottom of engine, wash it out and thoroughly dry it, replace the main oil pick up pipe which bolts onto the bottom of the oil pump, there is a wire mesh type filter inside the pick up pipe which can get blocked up very easily, refit the sump. Replace the oil feed pipes and oil return pipes going to the turbo as they are probably blocked up with gunge, remove all breather pipes and clean them out, replace all crankcase breather filters, they are normally on top of the rocker cover or on the air box. Remove and clean out the oil filter housing, refit it and fit a new oil filter, fill the engine with oil, start it up and run it at idle for 20 mins, then take it for a drive until the smoke clears.
I have also encountered turbo problems with the Ford S Max 1.8 tdci, they dont seem to have the same oil circulation problems as the 1.6 hdi engine but it seems that the variable vanes in the turbo stick quite often which causes a fault with the electronic actuator. If the variable vanes stick then it also causes damage to the turbine inside the turbo so unfortunately the turbo will need completely rebuilt.

Peugeot 307, 207, 407 1.6 HDI Turbo Problems

Peugeot 307, 207, 407 1.6 hdi realy suffer badly from turbo problems and has a serious oil gunging problem, the 1.6 hdi engine produce a lot of soot like gases which make there way into the oil via the piston rings in the engine, this will eventually contaminate the oil to the point where it can no longer lubricate the turbo. Replacing the turbo is simply not enough on the Peugeot 307, 207, and 407 1.6 hdi, the only way out of this problem is to carry out the following. Remove oil sump from bottom of engine, wash it out and thoroughly dry it, replace the main oil pick up pipe which bolts onto the bottom of the oil pump, there is a wire mesh type filter inside the pick up pipe which can get blocked up very easily, refit the sump. Fit new oil feed pipes and oil return pipes going to the turbo as they are probably blocked up with gunge, remove all breather pipes and clean them out, replace all crankcase breather filters, they are normally on top of the rocker cover or on the air box. Remove and clean out the oil filter housing, refit it and fit a new oil filter, fill the engine with oil, start it up and run it at idle for 30 mins, then take it for a drive until the smoke clears.

Renault Scenic Megane and Laguna DCI Turbo Problems.

The Renault Scenic Megane and Laguna 1.5 and 1.9 dci can suffer from turbo problems, one of the main causes is blocked engine breathers. A diesel engine will produce a lot of soot like gases which make there way into the oil via the piston rings in the engine, these gases are vented back into the engines induction system via the crankcase breathing system. This process occurs constantly when the engine is running and eventually the oil gets contaminated and turns to a carbon type substance, once this happens then it will block crankcase breathing pipes. When the crankcase breathing system blocks then the engine will try and breath through the turbo which of course will blow the turbo.

#64
Gusar

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aj sad prevedi ovo....



#65
Ticma

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Pa glavni uzrok koji je naveden je u stvari neredovna zamena ulja. Naime oni 1,5dci motori imaju turbinu sa plasticnim nekim sr..ima ne znam kako se zovu rece mi burazer kad mi je pokazivao rasturenu. Elem ta plaszika se raspadne i ne samo sto sjebe turbinu nego uglavnom pokrivi i usisne ventile posto dodje cak do njih . . .

#66
kvaka

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Smešan onaj tekst na engleskom.
Izduvni gasovi i čađ nisu ništa novo za ulje i uljni sistem. Oni svakako nalaze put do kartera, između karika i cilindra. I fabrika je preporučila interval zamene do kada ulje nudi dobro podmazivanje.
Samo kvalitetno ulje i redovna zamena i nema bojazni ni za motor ni za turbinu.

Edited by kvaka, 26 December 2012 - 17:59.


#67
ata

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Imam par pitanja u vezi turbine? Koliko je potrebno vremena da se ohladi na normalnu temperaturu pre nego sto se ugasi? Nazalost nemamo termometar turbine. Da li se I posle kratke voznje po gradu zagreje toliko da je potrebno hladiti, ili samo ako je forsirana neko duze vreme. Znam da nema preciznog odgovora... npr. Ako ga vozim do 2.500 obrtaja da li je treba hladiti ili ne I koliko?
Npr. Pre par dana sam se popeo na Zlatibor, vozeci na usponu oko 2.500 obrtaja, ali dok nisam dosao do hotela morao sam voziti polako - imam 2 do 3 minuta od tunela, I kruzne raskrsnice, (prakticno dam mileo zbog pesaka)... da li je I u tim slucajevima potrebno hladiti turbinu I koliko.

 


Edited by neshaoct, 29 July 2013 - 17:02.
prebačeno


#68
MS PK

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Ti nemoj nikada da ga gasis odmah, pusti ga minut -dva i dosta mu je valjda.



#69
ivan.ik

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Uvek ostavi da odradi malo, kako god ga vozio.



#70
Zvezdo

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Imam par pitanja u vezi turbine? Koliko je potrebno vremena da se ohladi na normalnu temperaturu pre nego sto se ugasi? Nazalost nemamo termometar turbine. Da li se I posle kratke voznje po gradu zagreje toliko da je potrebno hladiti, ili samo ako je forsirana neko duze vreme. Znam da nema preciznog odgovora... npr. Ako ga vozim do 2.500 obrtaja da li je treba hladiti ili ne I koliko?
Npr. Pre par dana sam se popeo na Zlatibor, vozeci na usponu oko 2.500 obrtaja, ali dok nisam dosao do hotela morao sam voziti polako - imam 2 do 3 minuta od tunela, I kruzne raskrsnice, (prakticno dam mileo zbog pesaka)... da li je I u tim slucajevima potrebno hladiti turbinu I koliko.

Ako ga duze vozis sa velikim okretajima hladjenje je obavezno!!! Zamisli stanes i ugasis na autoutu a prethodno si vozio na maximumu, to je jako lose i steti mnogo ali naravno s vremenom.

U principu tesko ces igde stati nakon velikih okretaja. Jurcas po gradu i naravno moras jako usporiti da bi se negde parkirao,iskljucujes se sa autoputa i naravno moras smanjiti i tako da minut dva lagane voznje moze dovoljno ohladiti turbinu da nakon toga mozes ugasiti auto. Da se razumemo nakon minut dva lagane voznje nema puno smisla jos stajati na parkingu i jos drzati auto u leru jos minut dva! da je to neophodno ili obavezno onda niti jedan turbak ne bi pozivio vise od par godina. Turbinu naravno treba ohladiti ali nema smisla ni preterivati. Minut lagane voznje,parkiras odvezes pojas,pogledas oko sebe u retrivizore jesi li dobro parkirao i ugasis auto, to je to!



#71
ata

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Hvala, u gradu sam mislio da I ne treba cekati, jer sam vozio do 2.000 (ravna Backa, nema potrebe vise), pa sam se vec zabrinuo da ne gresim... al sam ga hladio uvek posle vecih obrtaja bar nekoliko minuta. Jer sto je sigurno sigurno... (znate verovatno nastavak: ...rece kaludjerica I navuce prezervativ na sargarepu) ;)
Sad cu malo I u gradu promeniti naviku, motor cu zadnji da gasim, a pre toga da se odvezujem, gasim radio, prozore, stvari... nece da skodi jos desetak sekundi. A na start-stop cu izgleda da zaboravim, od kad sam ga uhvatio da debelo laze (nisam gasio motor danima a on mi uredno prikazuje ustedu).

#72
Zoranic MNE

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Ma kakvo ciscenje,  otvorite izduv :)   cistice se sama!

 

Vjerovali ili ne,meni se desavalo da na manjem gasu trza,dok nisam odradio straight pipe izduv, oslobodih se lonaca i 1 katalizatora.  Od tad nema vise stucanja,ide osjetno bolje.  I vjerovali ili ne manje i dimi...



#73
ivan.ik

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Turbo.jpg

 

Text govori sve.



#74
igor0511

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Ovo što si napisao je meni još davno palo na pamet u vezi start&stop, ali sam pomisilo ko sam ja da dovodim u pitanje nešto što tolika fabrika odluči



#75
ata

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Da dodam za start-stop jos nesto: eco-drive prilicno laze. Ne prikazuje dobro ustedu. Vec skoro godinu dana ne koristim start-stop (iskljucen je), a eco drive uredno prijavljuje ustedu! :p

#76
ivan.ik

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Kako rade varijabilna krilca



Edited by ivan.ik, 15 June 2014 - 10:08.


#77
ata

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Nisam bas siguran sta treba zakljuciti iz ove price?

 

Za nize obrtaje shvatam da povecava brzinu (pritisak) zatvaranjem usmerivaca, vidi se i na indikatoru sa desne strane, da kad se zatvore usmerivaci poraste brzina i pritisak, ali kakva je korist kod promene sa visokih na srednje obrtaje... koliko vidim brzina (ili pritisak) isto opada, bez obzira na promenu ugla usmerivaca??



#78
Zvezdo

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Ovo što si napisao je meni još davno palo na pamet u vezi start&stop, ali sam pomisilo ko sam ja da dovodim u pitanje nešto što tolika fabrika odluči

Mislim da sam vec pisao ali ponovicu.

Taj famozni start-stop sistem vise sluzi da pre unisti motor nego sto zaista stedi gorivo.

On se na aute ugradjuje iz samo jednog jedinog razloga a to je sto manja potrosnja odnosno emisija izduvnih gasova gasova ali na NEDC testu!!!

Posto je test tako osmisljen da auto (motor) u njemu dosta vremena miruje logicno je da ako se motor ugasi da ne trosi gorivo. Tako da je razlika u potrosnji veoma primetna na TESTU kod vozila sa tim sistemom i onim bez njega-gde motor radi u leru.

 

Tako da se slobodno moze reci da je fabrika dobro odlucila jer se u podatke unose samo rezultati sa NEDC testa. 

To sto taj test kao i drugi pre njega ostavljaju dosta mesta za manipulacije i nemaju puno veze sa realnoscu je sasvim druga tema ali razlike su od 20-70% vece potrosnje od deklarisane gde prednjace Nemacki proizvodjaci...


 "pa to sam i ja pročitala u Blicu ili B92 gde su pisali o našoj marei" :)

 

 

Pa brateee, zeni se onda... :laughing:

Pa dobro Nemanja sta ti vise cekas???


Edited by Zvezdo, 15 June 2014 - 11:23.


#79
igor0511

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Jasno. A i ta ušteda može biti vidiljiva samo u Kneza MIloša gde semafor drži 80s. U mojoj standardnoj ruti ja stojim na 16km na najviše 3 semafora i to 20ak sekundi tako da tih da kažemo ~6min na 100km izađe čak 0.02l ako je tačan onaj podatak o 0.2l/h potrošnje.

 

Inače, koliki je fabrički max actual pressure Garett turbine? Gledali smo na tečinoj čipovanoj 156jtd  i ide i preko 2.5bar.



#80
ivan.ik

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